Brooks
After spending a few days respite, I was looking forward to the rest of our journey in East Africa. Even though our time in Nosy Be was like something out of the imaginings of fantasy Pacific Island living (only in the Indian Ocean), I was ready to wave the white flag and give it all back to the mosquitoes. I looked eagerly forward to our next stop with the promise of a hot shower and cooler weather once again.
And so yesterday began…with a fresh count of new mosquito bites, even with Deet lacquering my body and our mosquito net securely in place. Even today hopeful of a hot shower, I was to be disappointed once again, but only slightly, knowing that this was the day that I would win in the end and get one anyway! So, I huffed and puffed and stuffed all my things (and a few newly purchased items) back in the teeny tiny suitcase I had brought (minus the things that were just too gross to put in one more time). Roger didn’t even say a word, not even one roll of the eyes. Matter of fact, he even offered space in his suitcase for the things that were kind of bulging out of the zipper of mine!
Then we hiked down the beach to grab something quick to eat, but oops, too early for lunch, so after some deliberation in French, we settled for a snack, a zebu burger instead, and hiked back to our place, now, all hot and sweaty for the flight to Antannanarivo (Tana), Madagascar. Unfortunately, we found out we had to leave a day early because in October Air Madagascar had decided to make a change, like cancel our flight altogether. The change didn’t throw us too badly though, as a few days earlier on our flight there, the plane was some two DAYS late. Not to worry, they had made up some time, so they were only 14 hours late in the end. We were actually getting the hang of this Air Madagascar thing!
So, off we went in our little taxi, winding around the island, through hilly fields of ylang ylang trees making the island smell like sweet perfume, for about an hour, eventually ending up at a small guardhouse with a beat up iron gate signifying payment due before entering the airport parking lot…mmm or spaces is more what I guess you would call it. We checked in with Air Madagascar and had no problem, as there could be no problem: no security system, no seating assignment, just pretty much walk in, show your passport, ticket and you’re in. Everyone speaks French or Malagasy so they aren’t very interested in what you have to say anyway, I suppose!
I was ready this time, though. No, I was not going to be disappointed that Roger and I would not be sitting together. No, I was not going to whine and complain that it was going to be hot as hell in the tiny aircraft and the smells would be unbearable and no, I was not going to start sucking and gagging just because I couldn’t breathe from lack of air. Nobody else could breathe either. But, you know what, when the doors opened and everybody made a dash for the plane and Roger and I got on (and we did get to sit together – poor man), I did start whining almost immediately and I did start complaining. I almost put my mouth over the air vent just to try to suck something out of it, just as I saw arms shoot up and down the plane turning the knobs trying to make some air come out. The seats were so close together that Roger had his legs spread eagle just to be able to sit down and then the man in front of him put his seat back! Ok, ok, it only lasted an hour, but it was bad! The good news is that we got to Tana safe and sound and I kept my eye on the goal: nice transition hotel, internet, hot shower, shuttle van coming to pick us up. The also good news is that there was a great article about Tibetans living in China in the air magazine, right where we would like to go next year! Prophetic or what??? Of course! Could be scary what kind of planes they have there, right? So, really, what was there to complain about?
So as for my fantasy… It blew up not long after the big skirmish at the luggage wheel where one always wonders if people are always that nasty or if they save it up for that special moment when they really want their stuff and they want it NOW… Seriously, like anyone else wants it! No, there was no one from the hotel there to meet us. You know how some people have someone there with the big fancy sign that has their name plastered all over it and they come rushing over and grab all of their luggage and whisk them away in a beautiful big fancy van and take them to a big fancy beautiful hotel. Nope, didn’t happen.
BUT, my fantastically awesome husband is not to be daunted in these places or these situations. Never to be outdone in a developing country, he ALWAYS is technologically ready to deal with any situation!! Of course, he had his cell phone and, of course, he had the phone number of our hotel, and even better, he knew where both of them were. Within moments there he was, a man shouting “Tomaaan, Tomaaaan” and yes, he grabbed our bags and yes, he even whisked us into a van, ok a small, fancy, ok, not so fancy, but clean van and took us to our hotel…and there was internet, and there was air conditioning, and there was a tv, and there was a bowl with two bananas and a mango in it and a frig with a soda in it, and there were towels—two of them, AND there was HOT water!! It was better than ever!
And, after working for a while and dinner, we were so excited to go to bed in a big bed, like queensize, instead of single or double for the first time in a month, and then it all started to fall apart again. The mattress was like a cheap bunk bed mattress and there was no mosquito net and there were mosquitoes and the pillow was hard. Thank God, finally it was 5:30 a.m. and a decent hour to get up. If nothing else I could enjoy taking another long, hot shower and work on the internet for as long as I liked.
Soon it was time to load up once again and head back to the airport to continue our journey to Nairobi, this time via Kenya Airways. Piece of cake. This was going to be the best. You actually get a seat assignment and get to ride on a big plane! So after having to pay for breakfast for two, which we thought was included, at this nice hotel that we weren’t able to actually get to sleep in, we loaded into an even smaller van and sat and waited. Then in French and a lot of hand motions, we were moved to a larger van where others waited anxiously for us who were also headed to the airport. No problem, we can assume the blame for other’s mistakes; it’s not an issue, so off we went.
The moment we arrived at the airport we were accosted by every kind of peddler you can imagine, but we’ve been through Tana enough to know how to handle this now, so we press on and finally get checked through, exchange our money, fill out all of our paperwork, go through security, such as it is and we made it. Yeah! Oh, yes, one last problem, I always have to go to the bathroom one last time before boarding, of course. So, even if it is in the Tana Airport, I tell myself, it’s not that bad, just buck up, everybody has to go down there eventually! So, even though I waited til the very last minute, finally I went down, down, down, passed the smoking enclosed glass cubicle, sitting in the middle of the room where the smoke just seeps out into the waiting area so we all get to enjoy it and down the steep dark, filthy flight of stairs. There are two open doorways at the bottom with no signs, nothing. Which way to go? Thank goodness, I’ve been here before, so I head straight ahead and shoot past the girl at the table with her little basket, hitting up unsuspecting travelers who think you actually have to pay here if you want to pee. But I know better now and I also am not intimidated by the men headed my same way, knowing they are going even further down the hallway to the men’s section and I’ll turn into the first doorway, securing my privacy—at least from them. So, after standing in line with French, Malagasy, Kenyan, Indian women and who knows who else, all of us shyly looking each other over, I quickly got my turn, and then got the heck out of there. I quickly raced up the stairs and then, of course, walked as nonchalantly as I could over to Roger.
…and waited, and waited, and waited. Finally, our plane was called…we hoped. We heard the word Kenya Airlines and we heard Nairobi in French over the loudspeaker and lined up with the rest, even though the sign said Air Madagascar – I know scared us, too. Then, walked for a very, very long time out to the runway to that big beautiful plane, the one I’m riding on right now that I was so excited about getting onto. And then things all began to fall apart again. When will I ever learn about expectations…no matter how realistic they may be?? Roger ALWAYS asks for an aisle seat, which, of course, means I have to sit in the middle, but no matter, at least I’m sitting with my babe. But, for some reason we were given two aisle seats—across from each other—but still not sitting together, as in connected to each other, which we really, really like to be! But, lots of people were getting on this plane, so we crammed our bags in the overhead and stuffed our backpacks underneath our seats and sat down, hoping to rearrange our traveling companions once they got seated. Sure enough a lovely young woman sat down beside me. So, I thought. Little wench. I tried in my very, very nicest southern drawl English to explain my dilemma and would she like to have Roger’s great aisle seat. “NO,” she says. So, Roger, about to have a coronary because we are going to have an aisle between us for the next three hours, is going to either deck her or get the guy beside him to move. I tell him, just let it go, already. So we are set. Happy, no, but set.
Then, we take off. I’m pretty excited. The air not only works; it’s cool air. The captain is speaking English and is talking about things that interest me. I pressed in the button on my seat so I can really settle in and read all about all the duty free items that I can’t afford, BUT…my seat won’t recline. NO, this can’t be, I started to complain to Roger, and he says, “None of them do!” So naïve he is. I, of course, point out every single person on the plane whose seat is in a reclined position to assure him, no, it’s only our’s that can’t! But, then my ally, the captain makes a new announcement. I can’t believe it. This plane has a MOVIE!!! A movie. It’s been a month without Netflix and I get to watch a movie. This is going to be great!!! Soon, we’re cruising at the right altitude and everything is a go, and the movie comes on, and what?? Yep, my seat pocket has no headset. Minor setback. I called the steward and quickly got one, plugged it in, and what???? Are you kidding me? Not only did the volume not work, but the channel didn’t work, so the movie continues to play even now, and no, I cannot watch it….Roger either.
All is not lost though, because this is Kenya Airways and in Kenya there is still food served in the air! Lunch is coming. Yeah! Here it comes, my turn, my turn and choices – even better! Lamb, chicken or vegetarian. Chicken for Roger and for me. Oh my gosh. BAD choice. Could be the worst. I mean seriously the worst. I can’t describe. Suffice it to say that I drank the coffee. Roger, of course, said, “Well, at least they still are serving food on the flight, not like in the U.S.” What is wrong with this man?? (He did later admit that it was pretty bad, which gave me a certain amount of satisfaction.)
So, you see why I am forced to entertain you, writing about how terribly spoiled I am. Not that long ago I couldn’t imagine traveling all over the world with the man of my dreams doing and seeing the things I get to see and do … and now I want a movie to watch in a seat that reclines while I do it! Spoiled rotten, I know!
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